Protein & Moisture – A Balancing Act

In order for our hair to remain strong and healthy, we need protein. Likewise, Moisture helps provide the hair with elasticity enabling it to stretch. Water is the ultimate moisturizer, that is why water based products are great for moisturizing the hair, plumping up the hair strand. You  CAN’T have one without the other. Moisture and protein work together in harmony to produce a healthy head of hair. The two go hand in hand. Hair will properly absorb moisture more efficiently with adequate amounts of protein on a regular basis. Thus allowing the water molecule to bind more easily to the protein structure within the hair.


Well, if our hair has an abundance of protein it will break with a little amount of tension/stress. This is a sign of too much protein with a deficiency of moisture. Too much protein/structure makes the hair rigid and stiff, lacking elasticity which in turn leads to breakage.

Too much Moisture on the other hand makes our hair super elastic, it will stretch more because it lacks structure (protein), resulting in “mushy” and overly soft hair (not in a good way), especially when wet. It will feel lifeless, and limp, etc. Overly moisturised hair will stretch and stretch and then break due to the over abundance of moisture…..bad times!!

Below is a list of the various types of Protein. Some people say their hair doesn’t like protein or cannot take protein but the key is to find the type of protein your hair can tolerate, because believe me your hair REQUIRES Protein.

Silk Amino Acids – Help to seal the hair cuticle, increase detangling & shine, and acts as a moisturizer by preventing dryness. Used to penetrate the hair to add body and strength.

Wheat Amino Acids – Wheat amino acids increase the hair’s ability to retain moisture and impart shine and gloss to damaged and dull hair. Due to its low molecular weight, wheat amino acids easily penetrate the hair shaft and bind to hair’s inner fibers.

Keratin Amino Acids – This amino acid helps to restructure damaged hair. Keratin helps strengthen and build healthy hair.

Hydrolyzed Soy Protein – Known to add strength and manageability to hair. It is able to keep the cuticle smooth, repair and strengthen hair. This vegetable protein helps hair retain moisture. Hydrolyzed soy protein also adds shine, provides ease of combing, and reinforces the hair preventing breakage.

Hydrolyzed Silk Protein – Nourishes and strengthens while delivering natural sheen and softness. A film-forming agent used to care for dry, damaged hair. It binds moisture, increases hair volume, and improves its manageability and overall structure. Provides ease of combing and smoothness to feel of hair, provides control to the hair from application to completion of styling.

Hydrolyzed Rice Protein – Low molecular weight penetrates the hair shaft to rebuild and strengthen damaged hair. Rice Protein strengthens and expands the diameter of the hair shaft to create a noticeably thicker, more luxurious look.

Hydrolyzed Oat Protein – Derived from oats; adds texture and thickens hair, soothes, softens, and nourishes it.Restores strength and elasticity. Easily diffuses into the hair shaft to give a fuller, healthier look.

Hydrolyzed Milk Protein – Conditions and detangles the hair. Provides moisture, great softness and manageability.

Hydrolyzed Corn Protein – Corn Protein with mid-range molecular weight adds shine and luster.

Hydrolyzed Elastin: – Helps attract and retain moisture to smooth and soften the hair & give elasticity.

Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein: – Strengthens and thickens the hair. It attracts and retains moisture (Film-forming agent which retains water) thus improving hair manageability & elasticity. Excellent penetration into the outer protective layer of hair up to the outer cortex. This protein conditions the hair with its moisture retention and film forming properties, which will greatly improve the body, shine, and smoothness of hair.

Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein & Hydrolyzed Wheat Starch (normally you see these two together) – This is a naturally derived, unique hydrating complex offers a combination of moisture-balancing and film-forming properties that work synergistically to give hair better body control and a smoother, softer feel. Wheat starch, on the other hand, has a low molecular weight and are very hygroscopic (attracts moisture from the atmosphere). Together they penetrate and hold moisture within the hair shaft.

Hydrolyzed Collagen – Adds body, resiliency, shine, and manageability as well as reduced static charge also provides moisturizing benefits. Used to strengthen hair structure. It is the primary element for hair elasticity.

Hydrolyzed Human Hair Keratin: -This protein is the best source, because it contains all 19 amino acids found in the hair. Human hair keratin protein has a low molecular weight. This enables it to penetrate the hair shaft. provide greater elasticity, reduce breakage and give a natural, healthy bounce.

Hydrolyzed Keratin – The true structural protein of hair. Penetrates the hair shaft to rebuild damaged hair and give it increased body . Keratin coats each individual strand of hair to strengthen and protect.

Hydrolyzed Vegetable Protein – A powerful hair strengthening protein complex that instantly & dramatically improves the condition of damaged hair. Vegetable protein absorbs more easily into the hair shaft (than animal protein) and does not create build-up, it leaves the hair very shiny, radiant, luxuriant, and healthy.

Depending on the health of the hair, some require a light protein perhaps like Hair mayo, or a heavier protein like Aphogee. I make a habit of using a light protein each time I do a deep condition, so basically every two weeks I will do a light protein followed by a deep moisturising conditioner. I also Henna my hair once per month and in my opinion, Henna acts like a protein in terms of the strength it affords my strands.

Henna is my No1 staple!! love. love, love, love, love that stuff. I will do a post on why this is my No1 staple in a future thread.


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